Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Coventry

You wouldn't believe me if I told you....it was just that kind of day.

So, first, to address the obvious question for anyone who has a map of the UK. Why the out-of-the-way side trip to Coventy when I have been happily traveling all this time around Scotland? Well, back on Iona I made friends ith a wonderful woman named Karen from Portsmouth (England) and she raved on and on about the cathedral in Coventry. It is a cathedral whose work focuses are peace and reconciliation issues and even the building itself is an architectural and artistic symbol of peace. Of course, I smiled and said it looked interesting, but she kept going on and on and on about it. Finally, a very soft-spoken gentleman who was in my Iona group spoke up and said, "I really think you need to go."

So, I planned a rather extensive side trip to the tiny town of Coventry.

First, I was happy to get to coventry because I actually got to stay in a modest hotel (for pretty cheap, actually). But, let me translate that: a room to myself; a nice, fluffy bed; my own bathroom with a shower I can move in; reliable internet. After being in hostels for about 2 1/2 weeks, this modest hotel felt like a palace. Hahaha.

Anyway, I woke up on the day of my Coventry visit and got up in time to go to the morning prayer service at 8:30am. When I got there I expected a modest crowd. But, it turned out to be me, two fully-robed priests, and one Indian woman who came in late. It was kind of awkward, honestly.

Then I spent a good amount of time wandering around the cathdral. It was absolutely silent. For probably a good 45 minutes I was the only one in the building (other than the people who worked there). It was very peaceful and an itneresting building. I went down to the visitors center and watched some videos about Coventry.

The story is very powerful. The original cathdral was bombed in one of the first air blitzes by the Germans in WWII. And, on the morning after, the head of the Cathedral spoke up and said that they would not seek revenge, but peace. 22 years later the new Cathedral was built and opened, standing as a symbol for peace and reconciliation and even employing a full-time priest who works on peace and reconciliation issues. Now, I am timid to give too much of this story away right now since it will probably be a big part of my sermon when I get back to the States and back to Virginia. So, for all those from my church reading my blog, you are going to have to wait to hear it. I think I will add the complete story later--after Sunday the 12th. So, for all my non-church-member readers, please be patient. I will have a post on the Coventry story soon.

The real crazy story of my day began at the noontime prayer service in which they read the Litany for Reconciliation and then have a small communion service in the side chapel. As an Anglican church, I knew I was allowed to participate in communion, so I planned on attending both events. As I was sitting in the front part of the Cathedral waiting for the Service of the Litany of Reconciliation to begin (a litany said noon-time all over the world), a woman from the cathedral came up to me and began to ask me about my visit--where I was from, how long I was here, etc... Then she asked me what I thought I would take back home from my visit to Coventry. I began to reply, "Well, I'm actually a minister at a church and so..." She didn't give me a chance to finish. "Oh! Well then!" she exclaimed. "Are you planning on joining us for the communion service after this?" "yes" I replied. "Well, would you mind reading the gospel lesson--here it is. The Beatitudes. I'm sure you've read them before." "Once or twice" I smiled.

When we got to the side chapel, there were about 15 people in attendance for the communion service. We sat in the round, around the communion table, facing one another. When we got to the gospel reading, I just stood in my place and read. It was a really lovely service--basic, but very meaningful.

After the service, I went down to the cafe to grab some lunch. While I was standing in line, a woman who was in the service grabbed my arm and said, "I really loved the way you read that. I have a feeling you've done that before." I laughed and shared with her that I was a minister. And immediately her eyes lit up and she began to ask me questions about my visit. When I shared with her that I originally went to Iona, the conversation really took off as she has always wanted to go to Iona.

She invited me to sit down with her and her husband and sent her husband away to buy me a cup of coffee. Somehow in the course of the conversation, we got to the question of what I was goignt o do the rest of the day. Honestly, I had no major plans. You should go here and here and here she went on and I tried to make a mental note and figure out how to take a bus or train to the spot that sounded most interesting.

Then, she sat up really straight, her eyes lit up, and she said to her husband. "WE should go there. We have a day off. We haven't been there in forever." Her husband nodded, somewhat unenthusiastically. And she turned to me and said, "Do you want us to show you around?" "Ummm...I replied." "Well, at least we'll show you around Coventry," she conceded.

So, first they took me to climb the bell tower of the ruined church. while I was up there, she left her husband to wait for me and ran to buy us lunch. So, when I got down, we had lunch in the ruins and continued to talk. They are lovely people. She is a little spacy, but so kind and he is a kind man who clearly adores his wife and has a wickedly dry British sense of humor. They then took me to see the Holy Trinity church in town as well as the medieval trade house. Then, they invited me to drive over to Kenilworth to see the castle. So, we did. And we hiked around the castle ruins. From there we went to Leamington and saw the Leamington Spa and the natural gardens. Then we went to Warwick where we saw the Castle and ate fish and chips out of the bag in the park along with strawberries and cream she had bought in Leamington (how much more British can you get?!?!). The weather was lovely and in each town we walked in the parks and down the rivers. Then, when I tohought we were done, they took me to Stratford-upon-Avon to see the Globe theater, the barges, and all the statues of the William Shakespeare characters all over the town. Then we went to their favorite pub in Stratford and sat in the warm evening air, drinking and talking.

They were amazing--not only did they tote me around all day, but they paid for absolutely EVERYTHING. They wouldn't let me spend a penny on food or admissions or anything. And when I offered or tried to thank them to the best of my ability, she would always answer, "Nonsense! I love entertaining angels. And you are definitely our angel today. You see, we have been married so long now and it's been a tough couple of years. We had forgotten how to go out and enjoy where we live and have fun. You are clearly our angel and the Spirit sent you to us. The least I can do is buy you fish and chips!"

So, 9 hours after meeting this odd but wonderful couple, they dropped me off back at my hotel. When I asked if I could have an e-mail or address, she replied. "You don't need one more person to stay in touch with. But, know that we are praying for you and all we ask is that when you think of us, you pray for us." I was so touched. It is not often that we allow people to come in and out of our lives so readily. We often want to cling or feel obligated to stay in touch. (Ultimately, she did take my e-mail b/c she wanted to send me an article. "But that's it." she ordered sternly, "no need for anything else.")

I got back to my hotel room and flopped on the bed, not believing my day. It began with two priests in an empty cathedral and ended with two angels in a pub in Stratford.

I told you....you wouldn't believe me if I told you...

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Roslin

One afternoon I took a trip out to Roslin to see the Roslyn Chapel--made famous by the
DaVinci Code book by Dan Brown. It is an amazing building, a 15th century chapel built by the St. Clair family. Every inch of it is intricately carved and symbolic. It is a very mysterious chapel with lots of interesting symbolism that can be dual Christian/Celtic symbols or Mason/Christian or even Priory/Christian symbolism. There are also some curious carvings like pictures of maize from the US even though, at the time the chapel was built, Columbus hadn't even been to the Americas yet.

Nonetheless, it is a chapel under repair and reconstruction, but an amazing place with some definite mystery and intrigue. Worth the visit.

St. Andrews

One of my "Edinburgh days" I took a day trip out to St. Andrews. Unfortunately, it turned out be just an afternoon trip because the buses got messed up because of the wind (the wind knocked out all power to the bus station). But, when I got out to St. Andrews, it was worth all the hassle.

It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny day. I made my way around the Cathedral ruins (rather quickly) and the Castle ruins. Unfortunately, I only had an hour and a half to go to both places since my bus had been so delayed. But, I really did get to see everything I wanted to. The Cathedral Ruins are absolutely stunning!! There is a sense of peace there, kind of like the peace of Iona. It was a quiet day and I was alone in the ruins, walking around the old cathedral, the area of the cloisters, and the graveyards. And of course, the setting looking out on the water doesn't hurt a thing.

The Castle ruins were quite awesome as well. My favorite thing about this castle was the Tunnel and Counter-tunnel. You see, at one point a group of local lords had taken over the castle and killed the bishop (or archbishop...I can't remember) who lived in there. The Earl of Arran wanted to recapture the castle, but didn't want to do a full-on siege because they were holding his son captive and ransom in the castle. So, he and his men dug a tunnel under the castle. The plan was to get underneath and blow one of the side walls just enough so they could get in. But, the lords inside the castle figured out what they were doing and dug a counter-tunnel (with a couple of false starts), following the sound of the other guys. Eventually the two tunnels met and the defending lords were able to keep away the Earl and his men (at least for a time). The awesome part is you can actually go into the tunnels under the castle. What is most notable is how the Earl's tunnels are large and actually have carved-out steps (as they hoped to carry animals and supplies down there) while the counter-tunnel is tiny and rushed. You actually have to crouch down to get through (yes, even me...I know someone is bound to make a short joke).

While in St. Andrews I found a few more church ruins, watched some guys play the 18th hole at the golf course, and also followed the recommendation to a phenomenal fish and chips shop.

But, the most remarkable thing that happened was at the very end of my visit. I had about an hour left before my bus and I was kicking myself for not getting more organized and getting out to St. Andrews earlier to spend more time in the cathedral ruins. But, I decided to walk down to that end of town again. Though the gates would be closed, I would still be able to see over the wall and through the gates and get another view of the cathedral. So, as I walk up, I am taking it all in again and then out of nowhere (it seems) forms a complete rainbow from right to left. It arched over the whole of the ruins. I cannot even begin to describe how beautiful it was. It was like God was smiling down and assuring me that I had sen what I needed to see. I took as many pictures as I could (see photobucket) and then just stood and took it all in until it disappeared just before I had to head to my bus.

Amazing day, amazing place.

Saturday, May 28, 2011

A Note About the Weather

Let me say this to start: I love Scotland.

But, I must say I have had the wackiest weather here that I have ever seen. First, there is not a day I haven't had a "wee bit" of rain at least. Some days it has poured. But, most days, there is this beautiful alternating of rain and sun. But, friends, we are not talking rain in the morning, sun in the afternoon. We are talking about rain for ten minutes, shining sun and blue skies for 10 minutes, rain for ten minutes, sun for ten minutes, cloud for ten minutes, rain for ten minutes, sun....you get the picture. It is wild. All I have to say is, layers are a good thing in clothing and ALWAYS carry your raincoat.

As if that wasn't weird enough, while I was in Edinburgh, we experienced hurricane-force winds across the entire of Scotland. In the Highlands gusts got up to 100 mph. However, in Edinburgh we only experienced gusts up to 65 or 70 mph. So glad I was on an outdoor walking tour for all this--definitely was an adventure.

And then, if that wasn't strange enough, we have been experiencing the ash cloud from the Iceland Volcano. It has canceled many flights going out of Scotland but I am hopeful it will clear by the time I have to leave.

P.S.-I had to add this. So, I was in my hostel in Edinburgh and it was another rainy morning (which of course turned sunny and rainy and sunny again) and a guy from Norway was having breakfast with his friend. His friend started complaining about not wanting to go out in the "bad weather." At that, the Norwegian guy popped up from his cereal bowl and replied without hesitation, "There is no bad weather, only bad clothing." I laughed so hard. But, a good rule to live by when traveling in Scotland!

Edinburgh

Edinburgh is officially my second favorite city in the world (next to Salzburg). (And if you know my love of Salzburg, that is saying a lot.)

Though the weather wasn't always ideal (see following entries), I had an amazing time exploring the city and taking in all the sights and experiences. I spent a total of 4 days in Edinburgh, 2 of which I took side trips to St. Andrews and Roslin (see following entries).

Here is a full, but incomplete list of all the things I discovered and loved about Edinburgh.

NEW FRIENDS: I have to start by saying I stayed in a rather good hostel with GREAT people. Among my new friends are 3 Canadians, 2 Finnish girls, and 1 Spanish girl. I especially became close with the 2 Finnish girls. We hit it off right away when they moved into the room (my second night). We enjoyed evenings out, card games, swapping stories, morning walks and cups of coffee and just a great exchange of culture and ideas. During the day we did different things, but it was always fun to come back and check in with one another.

2. THE CASTLE: Wow! What an amazing place! I probably spent upwards of 4 hours my first day in Edinburgh exploring the castle. You can see the buildings themselves and places like St. Margaret's Chapel and the Feasting Hall recreated as it would have been in the Victorian Era. The grounds are beautiful and give panoramic views of the city from all angles. But, they have also used many of the castle buildings for museums. I had the opportunity to see the Scottish Crown Jewels (the scepter, crown, and sword) as well as the Stone of Destiny (which will be used in the coronation of the next King of England). They had an awesome exhibit on Prisons of War where they recreated the conditions for prisoners in the castle and had some artifacts from those prisoners. It was especially fascinating as many of the prisoners kept there would have been American. I went round and round the castle grounds trying to take it all in.

3. THE ROYAL MILE: I enjoyed strolling down the Royal Mile (yes, it is a mile and yes, I did the whole thing--a couple of times). There are shops and little stops along the way. It takes quite a while to walk as you pop in and out, but what a great place, so alive with life!

4. THE WALKING TOUR: My second day in Edinburgh, I took one of those "Free Walking Tours from New Europe." It is a three hour tour (yes, I start humming the theme song to Gilligan's Island too). We walked all around the city--both the Old Town and the New Town--and heard stories about the city and learned about many of the sites and buildings. Our tour guide, Izzy, was AWESOME. She had a great sense of humor which was really needed seeing that we were walking through screaming winds and alternating times of rain and sun. But, she made it fun and she was able to offer suggestions for places to go, things to do, etc... It was a great tour! At the end of the tour, Izzy took a small group of willing victims to her favorite restaurant for HAGGIS. I actually thought it was delicious--piled on mashed potatoes and turnips ("neeps and tatties"), it really just tasted like a spicy shepherd's pie.

5. EXPLORING THE CITY: I spent a good amount of time just walking around the city--Old Town and New Town. I popped my head into churches and old buildings, took in all the statues around and by the end of my visit, felt like I barely needed a map to get around! Go me!

Apologies

I know it's been a while since I have updated my blog...my apologies. Things have been going well over here and moving quickly. It seems that each day is a new adventure and I am in a new city. Also, internet has not been the most reliable.

Excuses aside, I hope that the following entries will make up for the lack of communication over the last week. Also, I have added more pictures in my album on photobucket.

Here is the link: http://s1206.photobucket.com/home/Wagnerkr15906/index

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Stirling

Traveled from Inverness to Stirling first ting in the morning. I got to ride in the first class of the train--it was SO NICE. Plus it was a large train headed to King's Cross Station in London. So, the chairs were cushy and they brought by a paper, coffee and tea constantly, and even a croissant with cheese and tomato. THAT is the way to travel.

Got to Stirling at around 10:30 and immediately found my hostel. After dropping off my stuff, I got a map and went out. I climbed up to the top of the hill and paid for my entry and tour through Stirling Castle. It was AWESOME. the tour was great and I'm more and more able to understand the Scottish history. The only bummer is that I am two weeks too early to see the newly-refinished throne room/palace. But, what I got to see was awesome nonetheless. They have reproductions of the larger kitchens, they have refinished the banquet hall, the Chapel Royal, and the Tapestry studio. In the tapestry studio they are redoing the tapestries that they believe would have hung in the Palace Hall. The man was giving a little talk about it and showing us how they did it. It a was fascinating and sounded like grueling work.

After the castle, I walked through this beautiful old graveyard and then into the Church of the Holy Rude. It is one of the oldest medieval cathedrals in Scotland or something like that. The church is absolutely beautiful and has quite the history. My favorite part of their history is when the pastors disagreed and put up a wall in the middle of the church and two separate congregations met. For more than 200 years, two Church of Scotland congregations would show up at the same building, go to two different churches, and stared at the wall that divided them. Finally, in the early 20th century, the wall came down and the two congregations have been worshipping together ever since.

This cathedral is full of history--windows and decorations ripped out and destroyed during the Reformation and now beautiful stained glass windows and decor. Not only was the cathedral beautiful, the people who were working or volunteering there were incredibly nice and anxious to tell you all about the cathedral. By far, my favorite comment was a guy who pointed me to look at the timbered ceiling. "That ceiling was built before America was founded. Did you know that?" Crazy.

After the church, I took a few more steps down the hill and went to the Old Town Jail. The tour was interesting, but the actor who walks you through the whole thing was HILARIOUS and a little scary. Throughout the course of all of it, he plays 4 different characters, treating you like inmates, making fun of people and just being very convincing. I was impressed.

Since it was cold and pouring rain, I decided to go back to the hostel and take advantage of the free cup of hot tea. Once I got there, I began talking with some of the staff and folks who were staying there. They showed me such great hospitality. They invited me to join them in a pot of soup they were making and to join in their card games in the evening. So, I ended up staying up til the wee hours of the morning talking and laughing and joking with these people. They almost have a little family there and they were more than willing to welcome me into it even though I was only staying in the hostel one night. Shouldn't the church be more like that? Just a thought.